After a two‑year pause caused by the Gaza war, a Christmas tree and festive lighting returned to Bethlehem, but the Nativity Cave sees very few pilgrims this year.
Tree Re‑lit After Gaza Conflict
A grand ceremony lit the lights on Bethlehem’s Christmas tree with music and displays, marking the first full Christmas celebration in the city since the Gaza war. The tree had been removed during the conflict and was re‑hung when a fragile ceasefire took place.
Sparse Visitors and Offered Services
During the week before Christmas, the tree on the Square of the Nativity attracted only a handful of tourists, contrasted with many local residents. Several entrepreneurs tried to profit—taxis to the border wall, guided tours, and walking tours of the basilica—yet customers were far fewer than the services offered.
Russian Tour Group Makes a Striking Appearance
In the week leading up to Christmas, the Nativity Cave, the heart of the basilica, was largely free of long queues, a change from previous years. The most notable visitors were a large group from a Russian tour, who were able to enter the cave without the usual waiting time.
Limited Pilgrim Traffic Amid Ongoing Ceasefire
While the West Bank has restarted full Christmas celebrations, the return to normality is uneven. Tourists continue to come fewer, and many Palestinian artisans report a sharp decline in visitors, with some months seeing almost no tourism.
West Bank Christmas Markets Expand
North of Jerusalem, in the Palestinian city of Ramallah, a Christmas tree and market were set up outside the town hall. Stalls sell cakes, t‑shirts with Palestinian symbols, ornaments, and local products such as “first Palestinian whisky” by Victor Barakat. Nearby Birzeit wineries also sell wine, despite challenges from Israeli settlers who damage vineyards.
The Wall and Walled Off Hotel
Bethlehem’s proximity to the giant separation wall between the West Bank and Israeli territory is stark. The wall, covered in graffiti, sits near the famed “Walled Off Hotel” by Banksy, which reopened in December after a two‑year hiatus. The hotel’s themed rooms—especially one overlooking the wall—feature a small museum with artifacts such as Israeli grenades and a bulldozer model.
Border Crossing Rules and Personal Stories
Travel from Jerusalem to the Palestinian side occurs through a barrier gate with minimal checks, but returning to Israel requires crossing a military checkpoint or walking through a notorious barrier. Residents with Israeli-issued green IDs need special permits to enter Jerusalem, while those with municipal IDs, such as the shopkeeper’s wife, can cross more freely. The shopkeeper explains that he stays in Bethlehem because he cannot easily visit his wife, who returns weekly for cooking and family visits.